Not that it's the end all be all, but having an identity is pretty darn important when trying to promote a wine growing region to new markets. Napa Valley was quickly recognized for Cabernet Sauvignon, helping to establish the region as a worldwide powerhouse. Oregon's Willamette Valley rode the coattails of its Pinot Noir to international acclaim. Argentina? They focused their marketing efforts on Mendoza and its Malbec.
And you know what? It worked.
Opportunities for local winemakers grew and outside investment poured in. Argentinian Malbec became one of the worldwide standards for folks wanting a wine that was bold, juicy, had just a hint of peppery spice, and could stand up to a burger or steak. But what happens when a single grape variety and single style becomes a region's, even a country's, cash cow? The squeeze is put on those who choose to zig where others zag. Those who choose not to conform face an uphill battle to convince consumers and, if we're being real, wine professionals to take them seriously.
Well Matías Riccitelli zigged. And we are so glad that he did. James spent some time with him down south over the New Year and when he came to town earlier this summer, we hosted him at Popina (along with some of you) for an epic wine dinner. In short, he represents everything we love about wine. The experimentation, the forward thinking, the respect for those who came before but willingness to reject their ideas and take chances. He's one of the world's most exciting winemakers and we're thrilled to share his wines with you for the August Wine Club.
Entry-Level Club
Matias Riccitelli Garnacha 'Invader' 2024
Garnacha has always thrived in warm, dry climates, but the secret to keeping it exciting is restraint. For Invader, Riccitelli sources fruit from high-altitude vineyards where cool nights preserve acidity and aromatic lift despite the intense Andean sunshine. Whole-cluster fermentation and gentle extraction keep the wine energetic rather than heavy, producing bright raspberry, wild strawberry, dried herbs, and pepper with the kind of silky texture that begs for another glass. This is Grenache that leans more toward the Mediterranean than the stereotypical richness often associated with Argentina.
Matias Riccitelli Chenin Blanc 'Invader' Pét-Nat 2025
Pétillant Naturel, or simply Pét-Nat, is sparkling wine in its most ancient form. Rather than adding sugar and yeast after fermentation, the wine is bottled while fermentation is still underway, trapping natural carbonation inside the bottle. Riccitelli's Chenin Blanc is intentionally vibrant and slightly untamed, bursting with green apple, citrus peel, white flowers, and a touch of fresh bread dough.
Matias Riccitelli Malbec 'Kung Fu' 2025
Playful name, playful (but no less real) wine. Kung Fu is built around freshness and balance, relying on earlier picking, restrained oak, and careful extraction to showcase Malbec's natural perfume rather than overwhelming it with power. Bright blackberry, violet, graphite, and savory herbs replace the dense, jammy profile many people associate with the variety. It's an agile, energetic expression that proves Malbec doesn't need to be oversized to leave an impression.
Premium Club
Matias Riccitelli Bastardo 'Río Negro' 2024
Known as Trousseau in France's Jura, Bastardo is one of Argentina's most intriguing rediscoveries. The cool, windswept vineyards of Río Negro allow this naturally delicate variety to retain its lifted aromatics and vibrant acidity while developing surprising depth of flavor. Gentle extraction and minimal oak preserve notes of cranberry, sour cherry, rose petal, and earthy spice, creating a wine that feels effortlessly elegant. Further proof of the potential for mesmerizing wines hailing from outside Mendoza.
Matias Riccitelli Malbec 'Viejos Viñedos' 2022
Old vines rarely produce more fruit, but what they do produce is often more concentrated and complete. The deep root systems of these historic Malbec vineyards naturally regulate water and draw nutrients from far below the surface, resulting in grapes with remarkable balance and complexity. Riccitelli treats the fruit with a light touch, allowing layers of blackberry, plum, violet, cocoa, and mineral notes to emerge without excessive oak masking the vineyard. This is classic Argentine Malbec viewed through a more modern lens.
Matias Riccitelli Malbec 'Viñas Extremas' 2023
Few vineyards in the world sit higher than those used for Viñas Extremas. Planted at extraordinary elevations in the Andes, these sites experience intense sunlight during the day and dramatic temperature drops at night, allowing grapes to ripen slowly while retaining remarkable acidity. The resulting wine combines concentrated black fruit with floral aromatics, mineral tension, and finely structured tannins. It captures both the power of Malbec and the freshness that only extreme mountain viticulture can provide.
Cellar Pick Add-On
Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2025
When Matías came by the shop before our dinner together, he spent most of the time combing through our shelves and remarking on producers he admired, wines he loved to drink, and style he was influenced by. The real OG's of Beaujolais fall in the center circle of that Venn diagram and Lapierre is one of them. We didn't get too much allocated our way, so sharing these bottles with those who opted into the Cellar Pick this month!
Collector Pick Add-On
Paolo Bea Rosso de Veo Umbria Rosso 2019
Another super influential producer that has helped redefine their home, the Bea family remains the guiding light of Umbria. This 100% Sagrantino is just starting to come into its prime drinking window but has many, many years in front of it. A perfect fit for our first-ever Collector Pick!